Day 6. McCargoe Cove to Daisy Farm

Pat had no problem rolling out of the sack fairly early because he wasn’t all warm and cozy. After a wonderfully misty sunrise and several more pike from the dock, we bolted for the trail by 9:00 am. Hey….that’s early for a 17 year old!

I was concerned that the climb out of Chickenbone was going to be tough, but it wasn’t as difficult as I’d imagined. Once up on the Greenstone, we caught that first great vista to the north and Sleeping Giant. Wow! But the clouds had been piling up at it was looking like we might get some rain. But it held off and we enjoyed the hike in cool temps. About :45 after hitting the ridge, we came up on some hikers who we knew were ahead of us. They had their cameras out and were giving us the “shhhh” sign. To the right just ahead…..moose! And not just one. There, were a large bull and a cow, just as content and relaxed as could be, poking around and on the browse. We watched them for a good 30 minutes from 60-70 feet away. Got lots of pics and videos. Big, honkin’ animals! The bull was likely 1,000-1,100 pounds and the cow maybe 800 or so. Wow! What an adrenalin rush!

Then, another :45 down the trail, we spotted a cow and a calf! She was a little more nervous and we kept more distance between us. We watched for about 10 minutes before they moved on.

About then, the wind was picking up, the clouds were getting thicker and the sprinkles began. Before long, it was raining proper so we got the pack covers and raingear on. Then, no sooner did we get suited up when the rain stopped….though it continued to threaten. Our plan had been to head for the Ojibway tower before dropping down to Daisy Farm. But with the threat of rain, and possibly a storm while high on the ridge, we thought better of it and took the first opportunity to head for Daisy Farm.

Probably half of Daisy’s 16 shelters were unoccupied so we pretty much had our pick. The weather mixed clouds and sun, cold and wind. I donned a down vest under my shell. We gathered again with several parties we’d met earlier, and traded stories. Just about everyone on the island was now headed for Rock Harbor and the Friday ferry departure the next day.

That evening, the winds died down some and the sun came back out. Delightful, but cool evening. Pat and I decided to see where Ranger Rob lived (and I had a few questions for him). We hiked the 200 yards or so to his residence, a small cabin right on the water. Rob came to the door, invited us in, and we spent the next hour or so in very pleasant conversation about all things Isle Royale. We learned that earlier that day, about 10 am, a wolf had waltzed right in and stood by the sign at the center of camp. Doh!

Back at the shelter, Pat and I heated up some hot chocolate, swapped our sleeping bags and launched into our last night on the Island. But festivities weren’t quite over, though. About 1:00 am or so (I’m guessing), it sounded as though someone was trying to drive a dump truck through the woods right next to our shelter. We heard breaking branches, snorting and whatnot as a moose made its rather indelicate entrance to Daisy Farm. We heard later that it was probably a cow that had recently become a regular at the camp.

Day 5. Lake Ritchie to McCargoe Cove.

Ahhhhh! Sweet, cool morning and another fabulous sunrise. Caught a few more borderline legal pike between cups of coffee from shore. I let our neighbors top off their water supplies with my filter and lent my pot to a couple who’d forgotten theirs. On the trail by 9:00 am this time. The 6 miles and change to McCargoe were very enjoyable and scenic. And gloriously cool. What a difference 20 degrees made! Had no trouble landing a shelter and watched the Voyager arrive at the dock, exchanging passengers and gear. Most were headed elsewhere and the campground never did fill up.

There was a beautiful wood-masted sailboat at the dock, towing a small Zodiac. We’d seen them heading out to the big water 2 days earlier at Chippewa. Nice group of seniors who were fun to talk with. More otters at the dock. Caught several more pike off the shore. Someone had found and left a large single moose antler shed by the fire ring. Quite impressive!

I gathered some wood, started a fire and was joined by a couple campers. One young guy and his wife stuck around with us to enjoy the evening. About 10:30 pm, we were all considering turning in when I noticed a glow to the north. Pretty soon, we were treated to a dandy northern lights display, low on the horizon. It gave us lots of looks before abruptly winking out. Oxcellent!

This night, Pat just about froze! It got down into the upper 40s. I, however, was finally comfortable in my down bag. I offered to switch with him the next night and just layer up.

Day 4. Chippewa Harbor to Lake Ritchie.

Hottest day of the trip. It would be over 90 degrees later that day. WTH?!

Another amazing sunrise and on the trail about 10 am again. This leg is no easier from the other direction. But it was shorter since we were only going to Lake Ritchie….4 miles and change.

When we arrived at Ritchie, several sites were open and we settled in at one of the two group sites, just for the shade. Out came the fishing gear and we headed for the shore. We were camped next to a group of 3 guys who had portaged in a canoe. As we shore fished, the group stopped by on their way to a day hike. They said they had broken both of the 2 filters they’d brought and were drinking boiled water. They offered the use of their canoe for use of my filter. That was a deal I was more than happy to make! So we launched their canoe and spent perhaps 90 minutes on the lake and caught about a dozen pike, and hooked several more that got away. Pat caught several nice 24”-26” fish, and I landed what looked to be about a 30 incher. What fun!

We saw more otters and another bald eagle, but still…..no moose. But with temps over 90 that day and no cooler than 75 degrees at night, I couldn’t blame the moose for not being a little easier to find. Late afternoon, we heard thunder in the distance and saw clouds rolling in. We’d heard a front was on its way that should produce some rain and cooler temps. About 6:00 pm it started raining pretty good, so we piled into the tent. By 7:30, the storm was spent and we again had a great sunset and clear night skies. It didn’t feel much cooler tho….just muggier. But as the night covered us, the temps finally started to drop and we got some much-needed relief.

Day 3. Moskey Basin to Chippewa Harbor.

Another amazing dawn of clear skies and too-warm temps. I roused Pat about 9:00 and we were up and at it by 10:00 am. 6 miles and change to Chippewa. Though this hike was easier on the feet, I found it among the most difficult of the trip with a number of significant climbs and drops. We stopped for lunch at the Richey to Chippewa portage and spotted wolf tracks and a blue heron carcass.

While removing his pack for a break, Pat popped his knee out of joint in an awkward move. Heard him say the f-word (he’s 17) for the first time outloud. I’ve popped out both my knees many times over the years and could easily feel his pain. I sat him down for about a half hour, got him an 800 mg whack of ibuprophen, lightened his pack, and kept and eye on him. He was a bit gimpy from there on, but the knee posed no further problems.

We were denied a shelter for the first and only time on this trip at Chippewa. With stay limits lifted after Labor Day, 3 of the 4 shelters were taken by campers dropped off by boat and staying….if you can believe it….for 9 days. Oy. The tent sites were empty and we took #1 for the night. Bushwhacked to the top of the hill for some great views. Then down to the big water shoreline. Saw the old schoolhouse on the way.

Pat caught the first fish of the trip off the Chippewa dock. A northern, about 24”. He was allllll smiles! Caught it on a classic red & white daredevil.

Talked with a very tired hiker who came in later. Said he came from Todd Harbor (I think)…and had hiked 19 miles that day with a 50 pound pack. Made me feel rather wimpy. Or smart.

We took the rare opportunity to have a campfire, but felt nervous because the fire danger was so high and the dry grass so close to the fire ring. We stoked it once at the start, then let it die. The night was very windy but again too warm for sleeping comfort. We slept with the rain fly off for better air circulation, but I kept waking up thinking the wind was bringing in rain. Didn’t sleep very much that night at all.

Day Two. Daisy Farm to Moskey Basin.

I was up before dawn and sat on the dock with a cup of coffee and my camera for an awesome sunrise. Quite warm. Even at dawn, it was already in the low 70s. Made for a rather hot and uncomfortable overnight. I let Pat (Mr. Crack-Of-Noon) sleep till 9:00 am and we were off and trekking about 10:00.

This would be a short hiking day (under 4 miles to Moskey) but very rocky and root-laden. And quite hot. 80+ by noon. It was in this stretch that I tweaked my left ankle pretty good, despite constantly staring at my boots as I hiked. Then another lesser tweak. And another. By the time we hit Moskey, my ankle was swollen again….but still manageable. We were the first to arrive at the campground and took the second shelter in (#3, I think). I doused my feet in that gloriously cold water in what was quickly becoming a daily ritual.

Two boats had moored at the dock and the seniors on it had a picnic going on. Pat and I fished at the dock for a bit with no luck. On our way back to the shelter, we were offered 4 large homemade meatloaf sandwiches, which we couldn’t resist. Then Pat was offered a can of pop. And I was offered an ice cold Oberon. Yes, we were weak. And yes, we accepted. I felt guilty….for oh, maybe 2 or 3 seconds.

One of the park rangers showed up to check in with us and we had a brief, pleasant conversation. A solo hiker had shown up and took the shelter 2 sites down from us and he came over the chat with us and the ranger. First, he said he hadn’t known about the shelters and was a little disappointed at having brought a tent. He seemed not to grasp that there’s no guarantee of getting a shelter. He also said he didn’t know he would have to filter his water and was now having to boil it, and with the campfire ban at most sites (which he didn’t know about), was now leaving him short on stove fuel. Oy. I don’t know how anyone can come to this island, especially solo, and not be better prepared. I lent him my water filter so he could at least top off his supply. Had I been thinking, I would’ve also given him my can of sterno, which I carried as a backup to my regular stove.

We saw our first otter at Moskey and I got a real close look as it came right up to the dock, just a few feet away. I also lost 3 lures there without so much as getting a sniff at a single fish. Ouch. Thought we might have heard some wolves that night, but realized later they must have been loons, singing tunes we hadn’t heard before. Yet another glorious sunset under crystal clear skies, but it was another hot, hot night. I sweated my way through a very fitful sleep. Moskey is one gorgeous campground. The shelters are probably no more that 50 feet off the water.

Isle Royale - Late Summer 2008

The Trip

My son Pat and I departed Grand Rapids about 4:00 am on Friday, Aug 29. Heavy fog all the way into the central UP. Came about a foot away from hitting two deer between Cadillac and Lake City. Once the fog burned off, the day was clear, mild and beautiful.

We arrived in Houghton about 1:30 pm and took about :45 to drive around the MTU campus and environs to see what had changed in my 30 year absence. The campus has grown quite a bit but still looked very familiar. Downtown Houghton had grown up a lot too. All the same buildings still seemed to be there, but most of the businesses in them have changed. The Downtowner is still there, as well as the Ambassador and Library Bar (but I hardly recognized the Library when I walked inside…no more split-level bars). The old Dee Stadium Ice Arena has had a big makeover, but still stands.

After satiating my nostalgic cravings, we drove up US 41 to Copper Harbor and arrived mid afternoon. We registered at Fort Wilkins State Park for our overnight stay and I was surprised that they’d still had 7 or 8 sites available on Friday of Labor Day weekend. After setting up camp, we did some exploring of the Fort, Hunter’s Point and the surrounding area. Then we went to the end of US 41 where it ends in a circle drive, and took the dirt road that continued on. Five minutes later, about 75’ in front of us, a black bear ran across the road. Followed by a cub. Then a second cub! What a start to the trip! Sunset was spectacular from the top of Brockway Mountain Drive. For the first time in about a dozen trips up Brockway, I was able to see Isle Royale in the distance. Storms way out on the lake. Amazing.



Saturday morning was crystal clear and mild with no breeze at all. We boarded the Queen IV for a flat calm run out to the Island. The Captain is a hoot. The boat was perhaps 2/3 full.



Day 1. Rock Harbor to Daisy Farm.

We did the arrival registration and LNT-dance and got on the trail with packs that were heavier than I care to admit. . Our first leg would be to Daisy Farm. Spotted our first bald eagle right out of the chute about 45 minutes in. This was probably not the best trail to get started with, what with my gimpy left ankle threatening to buckle on the left-leaning rock faces…..not to mention the rocks, roots, stumps and whatnot that made me carefully plan every step. But we made the 7.1 miles in about 4 hours, including breaks. The upside is that the trail is relatively flat. The mid 70s temps and breeze off the lake kept things very comfortable. Plenty of thimbleberries left to enjoy! Did the Suzy’s Cave thing. Spotted a number of garter snakes. And the ubiquitous red squirrels, sneering and chattering at us with their “I fart in your general direction!” routine.



Daisy Farm was probably 2/3 full and we had no problem grabbing a shelter (#4, back by the pavilion-type structure). Hordes of grasshoppers everywhere. Damn near biblical! Spotted our first fox, sitting at one end of the wooden walkway that goes over the creek there. He took laps around the camp most of the afternoon. Loons and mergansers around the dock. Got acquainted with the resident ranger, Rob Bell. Great guy….friendly, knowledgeable and wayyyyy too fit for 50 years old.

Candy Peterson (accompanied by Rolf) gave a nice intro presentation to the wolf/moose relationship that evening. Remember that moose kill at Moskey from late July? Turns out the pack had attacked a moose just past the last shelter. The moose took to the water, but drowned in the aftermath. It’s very shallow back there and the wolves dragged the kill from the water. Rob was there and shot a number of photos, which he showed around, of several wolves pulling the carcass out. Chilling. But amazing. He had watched from about 100’ away.

The next morning, Rob had to ferry one of the gal hikers back to Rock Harbor because she had turned her feet into hamburger, using boots she’d borrowed from her boyfriend. Oy. She could hardly stand, let alone walk. The sunset was gorgeous, followed by a moonless night just packed with stars.

More to follow...

Time To Reboot

I started this blog with good intentions. Really. But here it is one year+ later and I've failed to follow thru.

Okay. Fresh start. But no guarantees.

If you read my earlier posts, you know I had an Isle Royale trip in the offing. Yes, it took place, last summer. A thoroughly remarkable and memorable foray. But did you hear any of it? Noop.

So here we go...

This is an extensive trail report, so I'll post it by days.