My son Pat and I departed Grand Rapids about 4:00 am on Friday, Aug 29. Heavy fog all the way into the central UP. Came about a foot away from hitting two deer between Cadillac and Lake City. Once the fog burned off, the day was clear, mild and beautiful.
We arrived in Houghton about 1:30 pm and took about :45 to drive around the MTU campus and environs to see what had changed in my 30 year absence. The campus has grown quite a bit but still looked very familiar. Downtown Houghton had grown up a lot too. All the same buildings still seemed to be there, but most of the businesses in them have changed. The Downtowner is still there, as well as the Ambassador and Library Bar (but I hardly recognized the Library when I walked inside…no more split-level bars). The old Dee Stadium Ice Arena has had a big makeover, but still stands.
After satiating my nostalgic cravings, we drove up US 41 to Copper Harbor and arrived mid afternoon. We registered at Fort Wilkins State Park for our overnight stay and I was surprised that they’d still had 7 or 8 sites available on Friday of Labor Day weekend. After setting up camp, we did some exploring of the Fort, Hunter’s Point and the surrounding area. Then we went to the end of US 41 where it ends in a circle drive, and took the dirt road that continued on. Five minutes later, about 75’ in front of us, a black bear ran across the road. Followed by a cub. Then a second cub! What a start to the trip! Sunset was spectacular from the top of Brockway Mountain Drive. For the first time in about a dozen trips up Brockway, I was able to see Isle Royale in the distance. Storms way out on the lake. Amazing.
Saturday morning was crystal clear and mild with no breeze at all. We boarded the Queen IV for a flat calm run out to the Island. The Captain is a hoot. The boat was perhaps 2/3 full.
Day 1. Rock Harbor to Daisy Farm.
We did the arrival registration and LNT-dance and got on the trail with packs that were heavier than I care to admit. . Our first leg would be to Daisy Farm. Spotted our first bald eagle right out of the chute about 45 minutes in. This was probably not the best trail to get started with, what with my gimpy left ankle threatening to buckle on the left-leaning rock faces…..not to mention the rocks, roots, stumps and whatnot that made me carefully plan every step. But we made the 7.1 miles in about 4 hours, including breaks. The upside is that the trail is relatively flat. The mid 70s temps and breeze off the lake kept things very comfortable. Plenty of thimbleberries left to enjoy! Did the Suzy’s Cave thing. Spotted a number of garter snakes. And the ubiquitous red squirrels, sneering and chattering at us with their “I fart in your general direction!” routine.
Daisy Farm was probably 2/3 full and we had no problem grabbing a shelter (#4, back by the pavilion-type structure). Hordes of grasshoppers everywhere. Damn near biblical! Spotted our first fox, sitting at one end of the wooden walkway that goes over the creek there. He took laps around the camp most of the afternoon. Loons and mergansers around the dock. Got acquainted with the resident ranger, Rob Bell. Great guy….friendly, knowledgeable and wayyyyy too fit for 50 years old.
Candy Peterson (accompanied by Rolf) gave a nice intro presentation to the wolf/moose relationship that evening. Remember that moose kill at Moskey from late July? Turns out the pack had attacked a moose just past the last shelter. The moose took to the water, but drowned in the aftermath. It’s very shallow back there and the wolves dragged the kill from the water. Rob was there and shot a number of photos, which he showed around, of several wolves pulling the carcass out. Chilling. But amazing. He had watched from about 100’ away.
The next morning, Rob had to ferry one of the gal hikers back to Rock Harbor because she had turned her feet into hamburger, using boots she’d borrowed from her boyfriend. Oy. She could hardly stand, let alone walk. The sunset was gorgeous, followed by a moonless night just packed with stars.
More to follow...
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